How do I keep Dumont forceps tips from bending?
The problem is that the smaller the tips, the more delicate they become and therefore are more prone to damage, while tips that last a very long time are quite often not fine enough for the microscopic procedures many researchers perform. If the forceps are used in a teaching class or by inexperienced users, we offer a very reasonably priced standard #5 Inox forceps; our Student Quality, FST 91150-20. If the user is experienced but occasionally hits the tips of the stage or the dish, we recommend getting the Dumostar alloy. The cost is just less than twice as much as Inox or Dumoxel alloy forceps, but lasts up to 5 times longer. You can also attempt to resharpen the tips. The tools needed are a dissecting microscope, a sharpening stone, your thumbnail, and smooth needle-nose pliers. Most importantly you need a bit of practice. FST does not resharpen Dumont forceps, as the cost would be more than half the price of a new one.
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What type of alloy should I choose for my Dumont forceps?
Start with Inox, which is medical stainless steel, quite hard, but magnetic and can stain. If magnetism and or staining are a problem, try Dumoxel, which is more resistant to staining, but slightly softer and less magnetic. If you have stain or rust problems with your Dumoxel, choose titanium, which is completely stain-free, 40% lighter than regular stainless steel, completely non-magnetic, but is also the softest alloy. It is heat resistant up to 440° C, or 824° F. If you have problems with the tips breaking, the Dumostar series might be your answer. This alloy has corrosion resistance superior to that of any stainless steel alloys, has the highest hardness rating in Dumont forceps, is highly resistant to metal fatigue, has great elasticity and can tolerate up to 550° C of temperature. It lasts much longer than any other alloy from Dumont. See our information on Dumont instruments.
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What does the black handle on my instrument mean?
A black handle on scissors means that the blades are of the FST Toughcut series. Made for easily cutting thick tissue, one blade is flat and serrated while the other is razor sharp. A standard scissors has two sharp edges that shear against each other, while Toughcut scissors have "slice" action. We recommend Toughcut scissors when cutting through tough skin, or when making over 30 cuts a day to reduce hand fatigue. Toughcut scissors reportedly last 25% to 50% longer than standard scissors cutting the same tissue, but they cannot be resharpened.
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What does the gold handle mean?
A gold handle on scissors, forceps, or needle holders means they have tungsten carbide (TC) inserts on the working surfaces. TC is one of the hardest alloys used for surgical instruments. They are approximately twice as expensive as standard instruments, but can last five times longer, cutting the same tissue. This can be very cost effective in the long run.
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What are your finest?
Finest pointed spring scissors:
FST 15396-00; FST 15370-52; FST 15000-00; FST 15371-92.
Finest forceps:
FST 11370-40; FST 11399-80; in Dumont FST 11254-20.
Finest rongeur:
Friedman-Pearson 1.0mm cup FST 16021-14; finer cup on special order.
Finest retractor:
Mini-Goldstein FST 17002-02.
Finest blade:
Diamond Blade, FST 10100-00.
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I need to open the skull of a rat, what do you recommend?
Choice depends on size and thickness of skull, the need not to traumatize the brain, and personal preference and budget. They are Skull Cutter FST 16050-15, Bone Removal Pliers FST 16025-14, Bone Scissors FST 16044-10 or other items in our Rongeurs and Cutters section.
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My instruments are rusting. What should I do?
Proper cleaning of your instruments right after use is the first step to prevent rusting. In most cases, what is perceived as rust is really dried blood, which, if left on the instrument will start corrosive action. Soak instruments right after use in a dish of pH neutral distilled water or a solution of neutral pH detergent. A soft toothbrush will help remove the softened materials. Soak up to an hour and never re-use solution. Rinse in distilled clean water and dry with clean lint free cloth. Be sure overlapping surfaces are completely dry; a hairdryer will help here. Ultrasonic cleaners can also be used, but be sure to follow manufacturers instruction fully, particularly in the concentration of the solution to be used. Instruments can also be steam sterilized; but follow manufacturers instructions. Use only distilled water; be sure to run the drying cycle to its end, so that instruments are completely dry; never mix good quality instruments with those of inferior quality, as impurities from the poor quality instruments could settle on your good ones and start a corrosive action.
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What is "Stainless Steel"?
Stainless steel is an alloy, which does exactly what its name implies: stains less than ordinary steel (iron). Yes, it can stain, discolor and rust, given the right circumstances. To make iron stainless, nickel and chromium are added in certain quantities, depending on the purpose it is being used for and the qualities required. The more chromium added to the mix, the softer the alloy becomes, something not desirable in a surgical instrument. Given that, quality medical stainless steel alloy is of a very specific, narrowly defined mix. A further aspect of making steel "stainless" is a repeated process of extracting surface impurities, mainly minerals. And the final high polish of the finished instrument puts a minute protective coating on it, also very important to make the instrument "stain less". Whether the final product is highly polished or mat finished will make no difference in its stainless ability.
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How can I prevent my stainless steel instruments from staining?
Never remove the final polishing film by rubbing or sanding. Never leave it in tap water for any length of time. Acidic or alkaline pH will remove chromium oxide and chlorite ions will cause pitting. Copper, iron and manganese will cause brown and blue rainbow effects. Distilled water with a neutral ph can be used sparingly. Rubbing the instrument with Surgical Instrument Oil, FST 29055-00 (also called Instrument Milk) and putting a drop of it between overlapping surfaces, will aid in keeping your surgical instrument for years to come.
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I work in salt water.
Saline solutions are very hard on stainless steel instruments. Rinsing them in acetone immediately after every use will help. Keeping them immersed in instrument milk when not in use is recommended. But salt water will eventually take its toll. Therefore consider buying titanium instruments.
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Why should I get a titanium instrument?
If you must use your surgical instrument in a corrosive environment, or you need a completely non-magnetic instrument, or it has to tolerate heat of up to 440° C or 824° F, an instrument made from titanium alloy can be your answer. Other benefits are: 40% lighter than stainless steel; better strength to weight ratio than stainless steel; better flexibility than stainless steel; it exhibits bactericidal and non-allergenic properties. Artery clamps made of titanium alloy (90% Titanium, 6% Aluminum, 4% Vanadium),FST 18144-30 are now being used in MRI's with acceptable results. Consider that it will wear down faster than stainless steel. See our information on titanium instruments.
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How should I clean my instruments?
This depends on how sterile your protocol requires them to be. First rinse in pH neutral distilled water and remove blood and debris. Use a fresh neutral pH solvent and then a soft brush for the tough cleaning. If you steam autoclave, make sure that you use manufacturer's instructions for your autoclave (clean neutral pH distilled water), and that your high quality instruments are not mixed with instruments of inferior quality. Impurities from the lower quality instrument can start a corrosive action on your good ones. Be sure that the full drying cycle is used. Overlapping joints may have dampness within the joint, increasing the chance of corrosion. This can be prevented in three ways: assure the full drying cycle is complete, apply silicone grease inside the joint as a protective layer, or by use of an air canister or hair dryer to blow moisture out of overlapping parts. Instruments can also be cleaned ultrasonically but must be immediately rinsed and dried. It has been our experience that the longest lasting instruments are typically the ones soaked in 70% ethanol before and after use, then rinsed and dried.
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How do I correct a drift in a MM-33 micromanipulator?
If you purchased the manipulator from FST, it came with a two-pronged key. Hold the silver, knurled knob of the axis that is drifting with soft-jawed pliers. Slip the key into the slot at the end of the same knob and turn clockwise to tighten.
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I bought two of the same instruments and they are different.
High quality surgical instruments are hand made which can lead to some minor variations in the dimensions of instruments, particularly between manufacturing sets. This is sometimes noticeable in the finest spring scissors and the tips in Dumont forceps.
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Your FST Micro Drill is squeaky or slows down?
Make sure the battery is charged, by running it with the drill bit removed. If it runs and sounds ok, put a tiny drop of mineral oil or FST Instrument Oil (FST 29055-00) on your index finger and rub it on the shaft of the bit. Before inserting it wipe the last centimeter of the shaft clean. This is held by a clutch and oil may loosen its grip. Be sure NOT to put oil into the drill bushing! For proper charging, read the instruction card. Any other problems? Give us a call on +44 (0)1440 703460 or email us at fst@interfocuseurope.com
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How long will I have to wait for my shipment?
We maintain large inventories and under normal circumstances your order will be shipped within 24 - 48 hours of receipt.
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What is your return policy?
We have a 100% guarantee of satisfaction. If for any reason you are not completely satisfied with any of our products, you may return them for a prompt and courteous refund or exchange within 3 days of your original purchase. Please note to comply with our contamination health & safety policy we can only accept goods for return under our guarantee policy if they have not been used. Items that have been used can only be returned for replacement or repair if they are found to be faulty.
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How can I sharpen my scissors?
We do not recommend sharpening scissors yourself.
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Do you have a sharpening and repair service?
Yes, we sharpen not only our own surgical instruments, but also instruments of other manufacturers. We may in some cases advise you that we are unable to perform a service on your instrument for technical or price reasons. If the cost of the service exceeds half the cost of a new instrument, we will advise you of this. We do not reconstitute Dumont forceps tips, as the cost of this would exceed half the cost of a new forceps. For prices contact us on +44 (0)1440 703460 or email us fst@interfocuseurope.com
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The sharpening of Dumont Forceps.
Yes, you can sharpen and repair Dumont forceps! You will need some patience and damaged Dumonts to practice on. You will also need an Arkansas whetstone, dissecting scope, and smooth-surfaced needle nose pliers.
Straightening the bends. Grip the forceps directly on the bend with the smooth-surfaced needle nose pliers. While applying more pressure closer to the tip on the inside surface (the surface that touches the other tip), pinch the pliers lightly. This is definitely easier said than done. It takes much practice to become proficient in fixing the bends. Keep in mind that once bent, structural damage has taken place and to straighten will increase the damage. Inox and carbon steel are brittle alloys and typically snap at the bend rather than straighten. Dumoxel, Dumostar, and titanium are malleable alloys.
Aligning. Sometimes, even new forceps will not close properly. For example, the tips initially close but when you pinch them tighter the tips separate. If the forceps do not meet properly, first take note where the tips begin to separate. Then use the same straightening technique as described above with the pliers but apply more pressure on the side of the bend just opposite the tip. By curving the tip in further, the forceps will close properly. If the tips are not the same length, hold the forceps together. Quickly and lightly swipe the tips perpendicular to the stone until the longer tip has honed down to the shorter length.
Sharpening. Use the grooved sharpening stone in a box (FST 29008-22) as it is easier to master and more intuitive. Use the o-ring supplied with the stone to hold the tips together. With the forceps held on edge move them back and forth lightly and check your progress periodically under the stereo microscope. Be sure to sharpen both sides on edge. Then hold the forceps on the flat and repeat the sharpening of both sides. Hold the forceps as close to parallel as possible to the sharpening stone; the closer to parallel, the smaller the taper.
Harder to master, but quicker and more accurate, is to keep the forceps constantly in focus under a microscope. A smaller sharpening stone will be needed (FST 29008-01). The repair process (straighten tips, align tips, hone width, hone thickness) works the same way but the forceps are held in focus by moving the stone instead of the forceps. You will find it easier to sharpen with the forceps placed on a stable surface 8-12cm above the microscope stage; this gives your hand more freedom to move. Use a magnification slightly higher than what you use for dissection. Change the grinding surface of the stone frequently and clean the stone with mineral oil (FST 29055-00) when soiled.
Not happy with the results? Try Dumont forceps made of the sturdier Dumostar alloy; they definitely will last longer.
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